Left-hand drill bits look like normal drills at first glance. Same twist, same point angle, same shank. The difference is that the flutes spiral in the opposite direction — counterclockwise when viewed from the point — and the drill cuts when the spindle runs in reverse. That single design inversion makes left-hand drills uniquely useful in specific situations where a standard right-hand drill makes the problem worse instead of better.
The Geometry
A standard right-hand twist drill has flutes that spiral clockwise (left to right as you look at the shank). The drill turns clockwise when viewed from the shank end — the same direction as a right-hand screw thread. A left-hand drill mirrors this: counterclockwise flute spiral, cutting in counterclockwise rotation.
The cutting geometry is otherwise identical: same point angles, same relief angles, same lip configuration. A left-hand drill drills a hole just as effectively as a right-hand drill, provided you're running the spindle in the correct (reverse) direction. The hole quality, diameter accuracy, and cutting efficiency are the same.
The Primary Application: Extracting Broken Fasteners
The reason most shops keep left-hand drills in stock is for broken bolt and stud extraction. When a bolt snaps flush or below surface, the standard approach is to drill down the center and use an extractor. The problem: if you use a right-hand drill to pilot the extractor hole, the drill's tendency to "walk" and the slight biting action of the drill's rotation can actually tighten the remnant in the bore — driving it deeper and making it harder to extract.
Why left-hand works here: When drilling into a broken right-hand-threaded fastener with a left-hand drill in reverse, the cutting torque applies a counterclockwise force to the fastener remnant. If the remnant has any looseness at all — which is common when a bolt breaks under tension — this torque often unscrews and removes it before you even need the extractor.
In practice, a significant percentage of broken fastener jobs finish at the drilling step when a left-hand drill is used. The drill catches the remnant, the counter-rotation unscrews it, and the job is done. This saves the time and risk of a separate extractor operation — extractors are easy to break and very difficult to remove if they break in a bore.
Procedure for Broken Fastener Removal
- Center punch the broken fastener as close to center as possible.
- Start with a small left-hand drill — 1/8" or slightly under the extractor's pilot diameter — running in reverse at low speed.
- Apply moderate pressure and watch for any rotation of the fastener remnant.
- If the remnant begins to turn with the drill, maintain pressure and let it unscrew out.
- If it doesn't unscrew, continue drilling the pilot hole, then use your extractor.
The left-hand drill doesn't guarantee success on every broken fastener, but it provides a meaningful chance at a faster resolution before committing to the extractor step.
Other Applications
Drilling Near Left-Hand Threads
In assemblies with left-hand threaded components, drilling operations nearby can be complicated if you're concerned about inadvertently backing out a nearby fastener. Running the drill in reverse (left-hand drill) keeps the cutting torque consistent with the thread engagement direction of left-hand fasteners, reducing risk of unintended loosening.
CNC Operations With Specific Climb/Conventional Requirements
In some CNC setups involving simultaneous turning and drilling, left-hand drills allow the spindle to run in M04 (reverse) direction during a drilling cycle, which is required in certain multi-turret configurations where spindle direction affects synchronization.
Drilling Through Left-Hand Threaded Materials
Some exotic situations — drilling through a hex nut with left-hand threads, for instance — benefit from left-hand drills simply to avoid the drill pulling itself into the thread in an uncontrolled way.
What Left-Hand Drills Are Not For
Left-hand drills are specialty tools. They're not a general-purpose substitute for right-hand drills, and they shouldn't be used in standard right-hand spindle drilling operations. Attempting to use a left-hand drill in a forward-spinning right-hand drill press produces a cutting edge that's running backwards — the drill will rub, not cut, and will damage the edge rapidly.
Keep left-hand drill sets separate and clearly labeled. A common shop problem is left-hand drills accidentally mixed into the general drill supply and then used incorrectly.
Sizes and Availability
Left-hand drills are available in most standard size series — fractional, wire gauge, and metric — though availability decreases significantly below 1/8" diameter. Standard jobber length is the most common. Long-series left-hand drills exist but are specialty items. Most shops maintain a set from 1/8" to 1/2" in 1/32" increments, which covers the vast majority of broken fastener work.
Keep Your Specialty Drills Sharp
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